Hungry for Hung Ry

Winning veal cheek, liver and marrow soup 

Hung Ry takes the humble noodle shop and elevates it to a sophisticated level without a hint of too-cool-for-school attitude.

In fact, the first thing that struck me by this new addition to the Bowery's string of vibrant eateries was the warm, friendly greeting. The next was a packed dining room of eaters young and old - all in a chic industrial space softened by candlelight. I love that.

Hearty oxtail soup

The modest menu of organic hand pulled noodles shines with inventive flavor combos. It changes nearly daily with such striking ingredients as quince, hen of the woods mushrooms and charred tamarind. Can they really make a soup of oxtail, brisket, rutabaga and sour cherries work? You betcha. Generous hunks of tender oxtail taste delicious with cherries plumped by a rich, complex broth.

Delicate lobster soup

The veal cheek, liver and marrow medley is perfectly cooked, mellow marrow balanced by fresh and firm offal, with a surprise crunch of whole macadamia nuts. Again, it all works!

The beautiful lobster comes in a delicate broth and gets its pleasant bite from sunchokes and hen of the woods. Don't miss the fried squid with guajillo and pumpkin seeds to start. You can probably skip the starter combo of monkfish liver with logan berry and hen of the woods. It was fishy, sweet and odd.

At the end of your meal, if there is room for something sweet, the pink grapefruit sorbet is light and refreshing.

On a bitter winter night, Hung Ry offers a warm bowlful of happiness.

55 Bond St (Bowery + Lafayette)

Tues - Sun 12-3 pm and 6-11 pm, closed Mondays

212 677 4864

Reservations accepted

Noodle soups range from $12-19